Hemrick Performance:

Twelve Time Undefeated Dyno Shootout Winner 2008 - 2011
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Hemrick Performance

 

 

My son “Dustin Hemrick” is in the process of creating a business to take over the online sales.

He can be reached at:

sales@hemrickhid.onmicrosoft.com

 

His website is: http://hemrickhid.sharepoint.com


You can still e-mail me if you have any questions.

clark@hemrickperformance.com  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Nitrous Kit For Fuel Injected


2001 & Up To 2010 Baggers   

 

2007 Street Glide 113 ci w/.020" nitrous



Click to enlarge


 

Nitrous Kit, Fuel Injectors, VPC Clutch,

Labor and Dyno Tune: $2,195.00

(Does not include NC sales tax)


We also offer custom installations on other Harley Motorcycles




2008 -2010 Nitrous Kit is not for sale over the counter.



2001 - 2007 Bagger Nitrous

This kits contains everything needed for installation including detailed instructions 

 



 

2001 - 2007 Nitrous Kit Only:  $970.00 plus shipping 



Price includes shipping to the US except Alaska and Hawaii. E-mail me for shipping to other areas.



                                     



Need an extra bottle or other nitrous components?


5 lb Aluminum Nitrous Bottle $170.00 plus shipping             

4an bottle nut not included with nitrous bottle.


12 Volt Bottle Heater Kit $159.00 plus shipping                          

Shipping is calculated for all US states except Alaska and Hawaii.  Please e-mail for shipping quotes for Alaska, Hawaii or out of country.


Nitrous or Fuel Solenoid  105.00 plus shipping                                                                                                       





 

 

 

 

 

 

How Nitrous Works.

 

 First, let me ask a question: 

What is the primary purpose of: using larger throttle bodies, porting heads, larger cam lobes, larger cubic inches, larger valves, free flow exhaust, tuning an exhaust, tuning the induction system, adding a turbo...?

Answer:  To increase the oxygen content in the cylinder as much as possible (of course adding the correct amount of fuel to the oxygen).  Also, there isn't any Nitrogen being added to help dissipate the the heat being created.

 

The more oxygen added (with the correct amount of fuel) to the cylinders, produces more power.  Just think of how much that you spend on these types of performance modifications to increase power.

Sometime, calculate the amount you have spent on modifications compared to the amount of power that you gained.

 

The purpose of Nitrous is to increase the oxygen content in the cylinder.

So it basically achieves the same result without all of the extreme modifications.

Of course if you already have these modifications, you will naturally have even more power by adding Nitrous.

 

 

How Nitrous Increases Power:

 

  Nitrous increases power in two ways.  First is by increasing the oxygen content inside the combustion chamber.  Nitrous is made of two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (N2O).  The oxygen molecule is separated from the two nitrogen molecules  by heat and compression during the combustion process.  Now that there is more oxygen added to the fuel mixture, you have to add more fuel to correct the A/F ratio.  Adding more oxygen and fuel, results in an increase of power.  Some people ask “Why not just inject pure oxygen?”.  Pure oxygen is extremely flammable and dangerous to handle.  N2O is not flammable and is safe to handle. The second way that nitrous increases power is by lowering the temperature of the A/F charge which results in a more dense air fuel charge.  Remember that this is the gas that a lot of Dentist use.

The air that we breath normally consist of:

*20.94% Oxygen

*78.08% Nitrogen

*Less than 1% of other gasses

Nitrous Oxide consist of basically the same gases that we breath except it has about 36% more oxygen. The two parts of Nitrogen acts as a buffer and absorbs the heat that is created by the extra fuel and oxygen bring added.


Injecting Nitrous also lowers the temperature of the air/fuel mixture. A drop of 10 degree Celsius (50 degree Fahrenheit) can add up 2% gain in power.  Nitrous can lower the A/F charge  up to 40 degrees Celsius.  That could be an eight percent increase in power just by the cooling effect.

 

There are a lot of misconceptions about nitrous.  One misconception is that it will destroy the engine.  This misconception comes from seeing drag racers blowing their engines while using nitrous.  People don’t realize that drag racers are using extreme nitrous systems on these engines.  These systems use multiple stages with multiple bottles and 500 + HP jets. 

 

A .030 jet is considered to be very mild in the nitrous industry.  That .030 jet will add approximately 30 horses to the engine.

The other reason of engine failure is caused by people adding nitrous without adjusting the proper fuel mixture (air / fuel ratio).  This also occurs when people performs extreme engine modification to gain power.  If you bore the cylinders, raise the compression, add free flowing induction and exhaust systems without correcting the AFR, The engine will blow up also.

 

The only real precaution that needs to be taken when using small size nitrous systems is, making sure that there is enough fuel being added so that the engine won’t run lean.

 

Think about this:

How do you increase power in an engine without nitrous?

Basically you make modifications to the engine that will allow the engine to flow more air through it.  More air contains more oxygen.

 

How does flowing more air through the engine make more power?

By increasing airflow, basically does nothing more than adding oxygen to the engine.  When you increase airflow (add oxygen) you need to increase the fuel to the mixture, which results in an increase of power.

This is the same exact thing that Nitrous is doing when added to the engine.

 

Here are some advantages to nitrous:

   Nitrous systems cost a lot less than building an engine to get the same amount of power.  Your biggest bang for the buck.

 

  When you build an engine to make more power you usually have to increase the valve lift, compression ratio, larger valves, heavier valve spring pressure, port the cylinder heads, stroker crank, bore the cylinders…

 

All of these modifications add stress to the engine not only while running the engine is being run hard but, also during normal riding.  Think of it this way:  When you install a high performance camshaft such as a .600 + lift, it pushes the valve open future.  This compresses the valve spring much more than intended compared to stock.  If you plan on increasing the rev limiter, you have to install even stronger springs.  Pushing the valve open future with a higher lift camshaft and installing stronger valve springs creates more pressure and stress on cam bearings, camshafts, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valve stems and valve guides.  The pressure and stress is always on the engine whither idling, or wide-open throttle.  Yes this can increase your engine’s power, but it also shortens the life of the engine due to the increased stress from the engine modifications the whole time that the engine is running. 

 

Adding pressure and stress, will also lower the fuel mileage.  If these modifications make the engine harder to turn over by hand, then you can naturally assume that it takes more power for the engine to turn itself.  Just as turning on the air condition of an automobile, it robs power and lessens fuel mileage.  Again, to increase power, you have to increase airflow and fuel (open the throttle more).  This means you have to use some of the engines power to turn the engine.  When it is harder to turn the engine, you will use more power and fuel.

 

Like a performance modified engine, nitrous will also add stress to the engine (basically only through the crankshaft and drive train).  The advantage is that it only occurs while the nitrous is engaged.  Again, no more stress than an engine built to make the same amount of power.

 

The engine doesn’t know the difference between 30 horsepower being added by heavy engine modifications or by nitrous.  The nitrous will still let you keep your cruising fuel mileage and engine life.

 

  Again, nitrous is doing the same thing as adding airflow (oxygen) through major engine modifications.  Whither you increase oxygen through major modifications or by adding nitrous, they both need the correct air / fuel ratio.  30 horse increase is the same whether by modifications or by adding nitrous. 

 

 

 

Dry Shot Bagger Nitrous Kit:

 

  Unlike generic kits (universal kits), this kit is specifically designed for 2001 - 2007 EFI Touring bikes.  The master power switch is integrated into the “Aux” switch located on the dash console.  The master is used to power up the bottle heater and nitrous system.  This switch does not activate the nitrous solenoid.

 

The nitrous kit comes with a programmable module that receives a signal from the TPS and engages the nitrous when the throttle is at 100%.  It will not engage if the Master switch is in the “off” position.  Most generic kits come with small bottles that are only good for one shot of nitrous.  Our kit comes with a aluminum 5 lb. bottle.  The kit is also supplied with a bottle heater, pressure switch and gauge. 

 

The purpose of the bottle heater is to keep the bottle pressure consistent.  The optimum pressure is approximately 1,000 psi.  The pressure can be adjusted at the pressure switch.  Kits that don’t offer heaters, vary in pressure.  Temperature can increase and decreases bottle pressure causing a change in the A/F ratio.  Every time the nitrous is engaged, the pressure lowers which results in inconsistent A/F mixtures. 

 

Think of this way...If you were using a portable air tank to pump up your flat tires on a car, you will have more pressure and volume while pumping up the first tire vs pumping up the next tire because of the drop on pressure and volume inside the portable tank.

 

The bottle heater raises the pressure to 1,000 psi and keep it there until there is not enough liquid nitrous to heat and expand enough to keep the pressure at 1,000 psi. (usually around a half pound).  You can tell that the bottle is low by looking at the pressure guage.  If it is below 950lbs (with the heater on and at proper temp), then it is about to run out. 

 

The control module, solenoid, relays and wiring harness are concealed for a clean professional look.  The bottle is removable for filling and if storage is needed.

 

 

 

5 lb Bottle W/Heater,

Guage & Pressure Switch

Mounted In Left Bag

 

 

 

 

Cut A Groove In The Left Bag

For The Nitrous Line & Heater Harness

 

 

 



 

 

 

Hidden Installation

 

 

 

"Show" Not Hidden

 

 

 

 

103ci     w/o nitrous 110hp/122.3tq 

                           w/nitrous   .030 Nitrous Jet  148.5hp/154.8tq

 

Look at the increase of HP & TQ from 2,500 rpm to max rpm 

 

 

 

 This bike was dynoed at 113 HP / 113 TQ before nitrous

.035 Nitrous Jet  164.24 HP / 174.00 TQ

 

This 103 SE Bike Not Only Has 164 HP But, Also Gets 50+ MPG

 

Bagger Nitrous Kit:

  TPS Controller

  5lb Aluminum Bottle & Bracket

  Bottle Heater

  Temperature Sensor

  Pressure Gauge

  Nitrous Solenoid

  Braided Lines, Fittings, Nozzle, .010, .015, .020 jets, Wiring Harness

 

Warning:  The air fuel mixture must be corrected and the ignition must be retarded by having the bike dyno tuned.  Your tuner will reccomend what type of tuning software to use.  If your bike has already been dyno tuned, the person tunning the bike will only need to change the map at 100% throttle position.  Engine damage may occur if the bike is not properly tuned.

 

Nitrous is reccomended to be used only with engines that have forged pistons Do not use cast pistons with large amounts of nitrous. 

 

Note:  The saddle bag will have to be drilled and one section will need to have a groove cut in the inside lip of the bag.  The air cleaner housing will have to be drilled to accept the nitrous discharge nozzle.  Installation requires approximately three hours.  See pictures above.

 

 

Q:  How much power will nitrous give me?

 

  A rule of thumb is approx. one horsepower for every .001" nitrous jet size.  This rule is dependent on how efficient the engine is.  A .010" jet should produce 10 HP and is considered to be a 10 HP Jet.  A more efficient engine may have more than one HP per .001" jet size.

 

Another rule is:  The injector can only provide enough fuel to make "X" amount of power.

 

This simply means that injectors are measured in lbs or grams delivered in a determined amount of time.  The injector can only deliver a certain amount of fuel.  If your injector is rated to a certain amount of fuel, then you can only add enough oxygen needed for that amount fuel.  If you exceed the amount of oxygen limited by the max. output if the injector, the engine will run too lean. 

 

There are several "injector size vs horsepower calculators" on the internet. 

 

These calculators will advise you of how much HP you can get with the size injectors that you are using.  You can replace the injectors with larger injectors to get more horsepower if you desire more power.  Basically your HP is determined by the amount of fuel and oxygen that can run through the engine.

 

  

 

      I suggest starting with a .010 - .030 jet to be used (10 - 30 hp gain).  If you desire more...be sure that the injectors have the capability to provide sufficient fuel.

      When using very large nitrous jets it is suggested using copper head gaskets and O-Ring the cylinder heads and jugs.  The bike that is pictured above is running a .035 nitrous jet and multilayer head gaskets.  It is not using a copper gasket.  He is having no problems. 

I suggest using a copper head gasket when the nitrous jet is above .035.

 

 

E-mail us for prices or if you have questions.     

clark@hemrickperformance.com