Here is an example of why we are
the best for your performance needs.
This graph is from one of the local race teams the came to us for more power. The bike is a S&S 124 ci. and the graph shows the results from just a little exhaust modification.
Check out the TQ increase at 3,800 RPM
The "Before" TQ and HP is in black. The "after" TQ and HP is in red.
Remember that this is a drag bike and they are only concerned with power above 3.000 RPM.
This is a 2007 Fat Boy 103 ci that another shop built. The build included ported heads, S&S cams, larger injectors, V&H Pro Pipe. The customer was happy with the power that it made, but they wanted to make sure that the AFR was correct. I talked him into letting me tune a little on the exhaust and play with the cam timing to see if I could increase the numbers.
The “Before” dyno graph showed that bike making typical power of 110 TQ / 99 HP. After modifying the baffle, I installed one of our adjustable timing gears, and performed several dyno runs, changing the cam timing between each run. The results (before mapping to correct the AFR) was 118+ peak TQ and 102+ peak HP. We start with advancing the cam timing +5 degrees to see if the power increases. If it does, we advance the timing to +7 degrees to compare gain or loss. In this case, we lost power so we knew that we should next try a degree between 0 to +5 degrees and compare the difference. Shown below are graphs using 0 degree, + 5 degrees, +3 degree and -5 degrees (just to show what difference that cam timing makes). The most gain was with advancing the cam timing +3 degrees. If you ever have to remove the gears on your cams in your engine, place the small crank gear on the crankshaft without tightening the crank bolt. Turn the crank gear back and forth with your hand and see how much play that the gear has on the crankshaft. This just shows how that the cam timing will not be at absolute “0” when installed.
These graphs were without adjusting the AFR. Look at the before and after graphs to compare the gains made with baffle modification and adjusting the cam timing. The gains are amazing. BTW, the customer (along with a couple of other customers) watched me as I made the adjustments and were amazed that the bike could have that much of an increase through adjustments only.
Before at "0" degree 110 TQ / 99 HP
+3 Degrees 118+TQ / 102+ HP
Overlay Graph: Not only are the peak numbers greater, but look at the total power gain between 3300 - 5500 RPM
I will post the final graph after I finish mapping the AFR+5 Degrees 115 TQ / 98 HP
-5 Degrees (Very similar to 0 degrees)
I have found a lot of talk on different forums, both positive and negative concerning this adjustable gear. Here are some answers to some concerns that people have commented on about the adjustable cam gear:
This technology has been around for many years, but no one has applied it to the HD industry except with permanent advance and retard gears. I was able to remove the cam cover and change the timing on this Softail with a V&H Pro Pipe without having to loosen or remove the exhaust. I was able to loosen the D&D Fat Cat exhaust on a 2010 Street Glide (w/o removing the exhaust) just enough to remove the cam cover to adjust it’s cam timing. Even the customers watching me were impressed of how quickly I could adjust the cam timing.
The gear is not serrated, grooved or pinned to secure the two parts of the gear. The four bolts is all that is needed for it to be secured. It is virtually impossible for it to slip. Google “adjustable cam gears” and read articles on automobiles that are using adjustable cam gears. They also only use the friction of the gears with bolts holding them in place. The only difference is that they have a lot more pressure on the cam gears because they are opening 8-32 valves and sometime more.
There was a comment that most cam timing changes would be at 5 degrees and that a change of less that 5 degrees would be useless. WRONG! The bike in this article had the most gain with only +3 degrees.
The gear was designed to be adjustable between +10 and -10 degrees. If you have a desire to advance or retard the cam timing more than 10 degrees, you can easily do this by moving the gear one tooth in the desired direction because each tooth on the cam gear is a little less that 11 degrees. In other words, moving the cam gear one chain tooth will advance or retard the cam timing approximately 11 degrees. For and example: I changed the cam timing on my bike to 11 degrees retard and entered it in the Greensboro Harley Davidson dyno shootout. The bike usually has 170+ HP and 190+ TQ. With the 11 degree retard cam timing, the bike made 160+ HP and 219 TQ!
There are concerns of the valves hitting the pistons when advancing the cam timing. My bike is a 103 ci using 103+ heads and pistons (2.08” intake valve) heads shaved .030” using a .032” head gasket and have advanced the cam timing as much as +10 degrees.
I saw a comment about the price of the gear being too expensive. Ask anyone that you know (or a friend of a friend) that may own or work for a machine shop capable of making gears and see what they would charge to make them. If you find someone that will make them at less expense, let me know. I would be happy to lower the price. BTW, compare the price of my gear to the price of a set of gears for gear drive cams and compare the amount of power gain and advantages for the amount of money spent on both. If anyone has questions or concerns, please feel free to e-mail me instead of posting unsubstantiated comments without doing the research first.
Remember that advancing or retarding the cam timing will not only move the peak TQ up or down the RPM range but more importantly, it changes the timing of the exhaust valve closing which is what increases power. By properly timing the exhaust waves with the exhaust valve closing, you can have major power increases. See the “Exhaust” article on this site.